Anyway, this is what I'm making today. It's easy, it's quick, and it's useful. So head on over to Craftiness Is Not Optional and check out this super cute pattern and tutorial, plus about a hundred thousand more and have a great day!
Showing posts with label tutorials. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorials. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
The "Bapron"
I found this free pattern and tutorial on Pinterest and think that it's about the cutest bib I have ever seen. It's going to be so sad when Maddox covers it in peanut butter and jelly.
Anyway, this is what I'm making today. It's easy, it's quick, and it's useful. So head on over to Craftiness Is Not Optional and check out this super cute pattern and tutorial, plus about a hundred thousand more and have a great day!
Anyway, this is what I'm making today. It's easy, it's quick, and it's useful. So head on over to Craftiness Is Not Optional and check out this super cute pattern and tutorial, plus about a hundred thousand more and have a great day!
Friday, November 4, 2011
Paper Chain? Nope, It's Fabric
Okay, here's the thing, I have ridiculously expensive taste in everything. I'm not joking. I get catalogs in the mail for clothes that cost $200+ for a shirt...A SHIRT!! Do I buy that stuff? No, I'm cheap, I don't have that kind of money and even if I did, I wouldn't waste that much on one thing. No way.
So when I saw this fabric paper chain in the Land of Nod Catalog for Christmas, I wanted it.
But there's no way you're going to get me to pay $29 for it. I mean, I know it's not THAT much money, but it's only 20 links long, which means I'd need a lot more links to have it go where I wanted it to go.
That leads me to "knockoffs". Yes, I do knockoffs. I figure out how to make something similar, using my know how, my supplies, and my hands. And typically, when I make a knockoff, it looks almost the same, without the $$$.
Without futher ado, here is my knockoff fabric paper chain. Keep in mind, I've only done 8 links so far, simply because I have about 80 other projects going all at the same time, but I will have it done soon. Oh, and this is the "Birthday" version. I am also making a holiday version...tonight.
So, How did I do it?
Well, here's the rundown. You will need:
3+ Coordinating Fat Quarters
Mod Podge
Sponge Paint Brush
4 Sheets Scrapbook Plastic
Sharpee Marker
Rotary Cutter/Mat
Iron & Board
Paper Scissors
Velcro Dots or 3/4 yard Velcro
*If you use the Velcro yardage, you will also need a hot glue gun.
All you have to do is this:
Cut the plastic into 8 1/2" x 1 1/2" strips. I used the Sharpee marker and my rotary cutting mat to measure and mark so I could make sure I got them all exactly the same size.
Iron the fabric. Cut the fabric into 9" x 4" strips.
Once you've got the fabric and the plastic cut, bust out the Mod Podge and the Brush (make sure you work on a protected surface so you don't cover your good dining room table with Mod Podge).
Start by brushing Mod Podge over one entire side of the plastic, then place the plastic Mod Podge side down on the WRONG side of the fabric, as centered as you can possibly get it (I just eyeball it).
Next, coat the plastic with Mod Podge (this is the side you didn't coat last time). Fold the ends of the fabric in, coat the right side of the folded over ends with Mod Podge, then fold one long side of the fabric in and press it to the plastic and fabric ends.
Now you need to coat just the remaining 1/4" of raw edge of fabric on the wrong side with Mod Podge. Fold that edge under. Now coat the fabric side that hasn't been folded to the plastic with Mod Podge and fold it over, pressing it to the plastic and the fabric. Your link should now look like this, sans the velcro.
Let the link dry, then attach velcro. I am lazy and use sticky backed velcro dots or squares, but if you buy regular velcro, you can attach the velcro using hot glue.
To attach the velcro, you will need to position one side of the velcro on the inside of the link, and the other piece of velcro on the opposite end on the outside of the link. When the velcro has had some time to adhere to the fabric, you can velcro the link together.
Why do we use velcro, you ask? Well, this way, you can store your fabric paper chain flat during the "off season" and it won't get bent up, scrunched, or otherwise damaged.
Here's a couple of great things about making your own:
*Use your own taste in fabrics, or use your leftover scraps up. This way, it's personalized for you. No one else will ever have the exact same thing in their home.
*Choose fabric for any occassion (how about one for Independence Day, or for that tailgater you're throwing during football season).
*Cost: For the whole chain...under $10. Yep, under $10 and that's if you're lazy like me and buy the more expensive sticky velcro.
So, keep getting those catalogs and watching those great designers. You can create amazing knockoffs for a fraction of the price, and your home can look like you spent a million bucks, when you really spent just a few.
Happy Creating!
Kristin
So when I saw this fabric paper chain in the Land of Nod Catalog for Christmas, I wanted it.
But there's no way you're going to get me to pay $29 for it. I mean, I know it's not THAT much money, but it's only 20 links long, which means I'd need a lot more links to have it go where I wanted it to go.
That leads me to "knockoffs". Yes, I do knockoffs. I figure out how to make something similar, using my know how, my supplies, and my hands. And typically, when I make a knockoff, it looks almost the same, without the $$$.
Without futher ado, here is my knockoff fabric paper chain. Keep in mind, I've only done 8 links so far, simply because I have about 80 other projects going all at the same time, but I will have it done soon. Oh, and this is the "Birthday" version. I am also making a holiday version...tonight.
Well, here's the rundown. You will need:
3+ Coordinating Fat Quarters
Mod Podge
Sponge Paint Brush
4 Sheets Scrapbook Plastic
Sharpee Marker
Rotary Cutter/Mat
Iron & Board
Paper Scissors
Velcro Dots or 3/4 yard Velcro
*If you use the Velcro yardage, you will also need a hot glue gun.
All you have to do is this:
Cut the plastic into 8 1/2" x 1 1/2" strips. I used the Sharpee marker and my rotary cutting mat to measure and mark so I could make sure I got them all exactly the same size.
Iron the fabric. Cut the fabric into 9" x 4" strips.
Once you've got the fabric and the plastic cut, bust out the Mod Podge and the Brush (make sure you work on a protected surface so you don't cover your good dining room table with Mod Podge).
Start by brushing Mod Podge over one entire side of the plastic, then place the plastic Mod Podge side down on the WRONG side of the fabric, as centered as you can possibly get it (I just eyeball it).
Next, coat the plastic with Mod Podge (this is the side you didn't coat last time). Fold the ends of the fabric in, coat the right side of the folded over ends with Mod Podge, then fold one long side of the fabric in and press it to the plastic and fabric ends.
Now you need to coat just the remaining 1/4" of raw edge of fabric on the wrong side with Mod Podge. Fold that edge under. Now coat the fabric side that hasn't been folded to the plastic with Mod Podge and fold it over, pressing it to the plastic and the fabric. Your link should now look like this, sans the velcro.
Let the link dry, then attach velcro. I am lazy and use sticky backed velcro dots or squares, but if you buy regular velcro, you can attach the velcro using hot glue.
To attach the velcro, you will need to position one side of the velcro on the inside of the link, and the other piece of velcro on the opposite end on the outside of the link. When the velcro has had some time to adhere to the fabric, you can velcro the link together.
Why do we use velcro, you ask? Well, this way, you can store your fabric paper chain flat during the "off season" and it won't get bent up, scrunched, or otherwise damaged.
Here's a couple of great things about making your own:
*Use your own taste in fabrics, or use your leftover scraps up. This way, it's personalized for you. No one else will ever have the exact same thing in their home.
*Choose fabric for any occassion (how about one for Independence Day, or for that tailgater you're throwing during football season).
*Cost: For the whole chain...under $10. Yep, under $10 and that's if you're lazy like me and buy the more expensive sticky velcro.
So, keep getting those catalogs and watching those great designers. You can create amazing knockoffs for a fraction of the price, and your home can look like you spent a million bucks, when you really spent just a few.
Happy Creating!
Kristin
Friday, June 25, 2010
The Flash
During Celebrate The Boy month, there was an awesome tutorial for a boy's shirt over at
I have been meaning to make one for Drew. I have some T-shirts around here that would be perfect for it. I prefer onesies for my little guy at this point, though. So I decided to go for it. I ran over to D.I.- yes, they have one or two of those around here- and found a couple T-shirts. I made the first one this morning. It took me about 90 minutes total. I made some mistakes and had to redo a few things, so I think it will take even less time the next go round.
So here is how mine turned out:
I bought a onesie at D.I. so that I could cut it up and use it as a pattern (I don't have any extra onesies at home I can use). It worked out pretty well except that the onesie was a very stretchy knit and the T-shirt I used isn't quite so stretchy. Add that to the fact that I use cloth diapers, and the it ends up being a bit more snug around the bum than I like. So the next one will get cut a bit wider at the bottom - hopefully that will solve the problem! I plan to take pictures on the next one so that you can see how the bottom of the onesie is done.
If you are apprehensive about sewing with knits, DO NOT WORRY. It really was easy. I didn't use my serger because I need to find the tool used to remove the needle as it seems to have disappeared. I just used a .5 width zigzag with a 3.0 length stitch on my regular machine and it worked great for finishing the neck and leg edges. It was SO easy. Go over to
I have been meaning to make one for Drew. I have some T-shirts around here that would be perfect for it. I prefer onesies for my little guy at this point, though. So I decided to go for it. I ran over to D.I.- yes, they have one or two of those around here- and found a couple T-shirts. I made the first one this morning. It took me about 90 minutes total. I made some mistakes and had to redo a few things, so I think it will take even less time the next go round.
So here is how mine turned out:
If you are apprehensive about sewing with knits, DO NOT WORRY. It really was easy. I didn't use my serger because I need to find the tool used to remove the needle as it seems to have disappeared. I just used a .5 width zigzag with a 3.0 length stitch on my regular machine and it worked great for finishing the neck and leg edges. It was SO easy. Go over to
and get started!
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Tiered Skirt Tutorial
Have you seen all those cute tiered skirts out there? I have. I was trying to decide what to make for my girls to wear on Valentine's Day this year. I decided to go with tiered skirts. I love the way they turned out!
This skirt requires a bit of math, so get your calculators ready!
NOTE: This skirt could also be made for an adult using the same formula.
Supplies:
Determine the length of the skirt by measuring from the waist to where you want the hem.
Determine how many tiers you want.
You can now formulate the measurements for the skirt.
You will cut strips for each tier. The width of the tiers will equal the length of your skirt divided by the number of tiers plus seam allowances and allowances for a hem and a waistband. Add two inches to the first tier for the waistband. Add one inch to each of the middle tiers for seam allowances (half inch for the upper seam allowance and half an inch for the lower seam allowance). Add one and a half inches for hem and seam allowances on the bottom tier.
Now, to determine the length of the tiers. Remember that waist measurement? You will use that now. Depending on how full you want your tiers to be, you will multiply that times 1.5 or 2. I will use 2 for this tutorial on a 22 inch waist. On the red and white skirts, I used1.5 (you can look at the pictures to help determine how full you want your skirt to be). For the length of each tier, multiply the previous tier times 2 (or 1.5 if you are wanting the less gathered tiers).
Here is a brief recap:
Waist measurement = 22 inches
Length of skirt = 18 inches
Number of tiers = 4
Length divided by number of tiers = X (4.5)
Width of 1st tier = X+2 (4.5 + 2 = 6.5)
Width of 2nd and 3rd tiers = X+1 (4.5 + 1 = 5.5)
Width of 4th tier = X+1.5 (4.5 + 1.5 = 6)
Length of first tier = Waist x 2 = A (A = 44)
Length of second tier = A x 2 = B (B = 88)
Length of third tier = B x 2 = C (C = 176)
Length of fourth tier = C x 2 = D (D = 352)
On to cutting the fabric!
I used a rotary cutter, self healing mat, and ruler to cut my fabric. You may also mark your fabric and cut with scissors. Here is a picture of a strip that I just cut.
Because the fabric is 44 inches wide and my first tier needed to be 44 inches, I folded the fabric the same way it was folded on the bolt to cut the strips. I cut one strip for the first tier (44 inches long by 6.5 inches wide). For the second tier, I cut 2 strips 44 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, totaling 88 inches long by 5.5 inches wide (it doesn't matter if it ends up slightly shorter due to seams, just go with it). For the third tier, I cut 4 strips 44 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, and the fourth tier I cut 8 strips 44 inches long by 6 inches wide.
Here is a picture of all the strips for the 4 tiers of the skirt. I am using 2 coordinating fabrics and alternating them.
I like to start from the hem and work up to the waistband.
1. Take all of the strips for the top tier of the skirt and sew them together into one continuous piece. Press seams out. If you need to finish off the raw edges, you can use a zigzag stitch or serger.
Repeat for each tier.
On the bottom tier, turn a half inch along one edge of the tier, pressing. Turn again. Stitch along the upper edge of the hem.
2. To gather, stitch a 1/4 inch from top edge using a long stitch (I use a stitch length of 5 on my machine, but all of the other machines I have used gathered at a stitch length of 4). Then stitch again a 1/4 inch front the first row of stitching. With really long tiers, you can do the gathering stitches in sections.
3. Pull the threads on ONE side of the fabric to gather. Be sure not to pull so hard that you break the thread- if using a good quality thread this won't be an issue.
Pin the gathered edge to the next tier of fabric, right sides together. Stitch 1/2 inch from the edged, making sure that you are using a normal stitch length again. Finish off the raw edges with a serger or by sewing a zigzag stitch.
Turn right side out and press seam allowance up toward the upper tier (ungathered edge).
I like to do an 1/8 inch topstitch to make it look more professional. This is optional, but it really does look nice!
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for all tiers except the top tier.
5. Turn under 1/4 inch on the top edge of the top tier, pressing as you go.
Turn again, this time turning 1 inch, pressing as you go.
Stitch 1/8 inch seam around both edges to create casing for the elastic, leaving a 2 inch opening.
Measure the wearer's waist. Cut your elastic 1-2 inches longer. Thread through the casing (I usually use a safety pin for this). Overlap the two ends of the elastic and stitch using a zigzag stitch, going back and forth several times. Check the fit. Pull the elastic inside the casing and finish by stitching the opening closed.
Variations:
You can cut your strips in continuous strips down the length of your fabric if you don't want seams other than on the sides. This takes more time and effort, but I did it on the red and white skirts that I made.
You can do patchwork tiers as well. This is a little more time consuming, but can look gorgeous. Maybe I will do a tutorial on patchwork someday. I'm not promising anything at the moment, though!
***If you have any questions please leave a comment and I will try to answer it!***
This skirt requires a bit of math, so get your calculators ready!
NOTE: This skirt could also be made for an adult using the same formula.
Supplies:
- yardage of fabric (based on size of person, tiers, and length of skirt)
- 3/4 inch non-rolling elastic
- coordinating thread
- scissors
- rotary cutter and mat (optional)
- paper
- pencil or pen
- calculator (optional)
- sewing machine
- iron
- ironing board or mat
Determine the length of the skirt by measuring from the waist to where you want the hem.
Determine how many tiers you want.
You can now formulate the measurements for the skirt.
You will cut strips for each tier. The width of the tiers will equal the length of your skirt divided by the number of tiers plus seam allowances and allowances for a hem and a waistband. Add two inches to the first tier for the waistband. Add one inch to each of the middle tiers for seam allowances (half inch for the upper seam allowance and half an inch for the lower seam allowance). Add one and a half inches for hem and seam allowances on the bottom tier.
Now, to determine the length of the tiers. Remember that waist measurement? You will use that now. Depending on how full you want your tiers to be, you will multiply that times 1.5 or 2. I will use 2 for this tutorial on a 22 inch waist. On the red and white skirts, I used1.5 (you can look at the pictures to help determine how full you want your skirt to be). For the length of each tier, multiply the previous tier times 2 (or 1.5 if you are wanting the less gathered tiers).
Here is a brief recap:
Waist measurement = 22 inches
Length of skirt = 18 inches
Number of tiers = 4
Length divided by number of tiers = X (4.5)
Width of 1st tier = X+2 (4.5 + 2 = 6.5)
Width of 2nd and 3rd tiers = X+1 (4.5 + 1 = 5.5)
Width of 4th tier = X+1.5 (4.5 + 1.5 = 6)
Length of first tier = Waist x 2 = A (A = 44)
Length of second tier = A x 2 = B (B = 88)
Length of third tier = B x 2 = C (C = 176)
Length of fourth tier = C x 2 = D (D = 352)
On to cutting the fabric!
I used a rotary cutter, self healing mat, and ruler to cut my fabric. You may also mark your fabric and cut with scissors. Here is a picture of a strip that I just cut.
Because the fabric is 44 inches wide and my first tier needed to be 44 inches, I folded the fabric the same way it was folded on the bolt to cut the strips. I cut one strip for the first tier (44 inches long by 6.5 inches wide). For the second tier, I cut 2 strips 44 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, totaling 88 inches long by 5.5 inches wide (it doesn't matter if it ends up slightly shorter due to seams, just go with it). For the third tier, I cut 4 strips 44 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, and the fourth tier I cut 8 strips 44 inches long by 6 inches wide.
Here is a picture of all the strips for the 4 tiers of the skirt. I am using 2 coordinating fabrics and alternating them.
I like to start from the hem and work up to the waistband.
1. Take all of the strips for the top tier of the skirt and sew them together into one continuous piece. Press seams out. If you need to finish off the raw edges, you can use a zigzag stitch or serger.
Repeat for each tier.
On the bottom tier, turn a half inch along one edge of the tier, pressing. Turn again. Stitch along the upper edge of the hem.
2. To gather, stitch a 1/4 inch from top edge using a long stitch (I use a stitch length of 5 on my machine, but all of the other machines I have used gathered at a stitch length of 4). Then stitch again a 1/4 inch front the first row of stitching. With really long tiers, you can do the gathering stitches in sections.
3. Pull the threads on ONE side of the fabric to gather. Be sure not to pull so hard that you break the thread- if using a good quality thread this won't be an issue.
Pin the gathered edge to the next tier of fabric, right sides together. Stitch 1/2 inch from the edged, making sure that you are using a normal stitch length again. Finish off the raw edges with a serger or by sewing a zigzag stitch.
Turn right side out and press seam allowance up toward the upper tier (ungathered edge).
I like to do an 1/8 inch topstitch to make it look more professional. This is optional, but it really does look nice!
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for all tiers except the top tier.
5. Turn under 1/4 inch on the top edge of the top tier, pressing as you go.
Turn again, this time turning 1 inch, pressing as you go.
Variations:
You can cut your strips in continuous strips down the length of your fabric if you don't want seams other than on the sides. This takes more time and effort, but I did it on the red and white skirts that I made.
You can do patchwork tiers as well. This is a little more time consuming, but can look gorgeous. Maybe I will do a tutorial on patchwork someday. I'm not promising anything at the moment, though!
***If you have any questions please leave a comment and I will try to answer it!***
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Custom Camera Strap
As promised, and barely finished, I have a Custom Camera Strap tutorial for you. Keep in mind, this camera strap is designed for a canon DSLR camera, it is not a wrist strap for a point and shoot and I haven't tested it on any other brand of camera. You may need to test webbing widths on your camera before purchasing the webbing.
Supplies:
Cutting and creasing fabric:
Cut fabric to 34" long. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press, then open with wrong side facing up.
Using center crease as a guide, fold raw edges toward center, leaving 5/8" between raw edges and center crease. Press.
Open out. Fold 1/2" toward wrong side of fabric at each end. Press.
Assembly:
Place one strip of interfacing, fusible side down on top of wrong side of fabric, between outer crease and center crease. Repeat for other piece of interfacing between other outer crease and the center crease.
Fold fabric over interfacing. Turn entire assembly over. Press to fuse, following instructions provided with interfacing.
Turn back over. Fold in half along center crease. Press. Your strap should now look like this.
Top stitch both long edges of strap 1/4" from edge backstitching at both ends.
Adding Quick Release Straps:
Cut 2 strips of webbing 7" long. Using 1 strip of webbing and the male side of one clip, thread male side of clip onto webbing. Fold webbing in half lengthwise. Insert ends into end of strap. Don't overlap ends.
Stitch, going over stitching 3 times. Backstitch at the start and finish. Repeat for other end of strap, this time using the female part of the clip.
Topstitch around all edges of strap 1/8" from the edge, going over the stitching 3 times at each end with webbing, to strenthen.
Camera Side Straps:
Cut two 9" strips of webbing. Using 1 strap and the male end of the other clip, thread the male end onto the webbing. Fold over 3/4". Stitch closed going over stitching 3 times. Stitch another line 1/8" from original seam, going over 3 times to strengthen.
Repeat with other strip of webbing and female side of clip.
Tip: To keep ends of webbing from fraying, melt them with a lighter before sewing. Be careful, you're playing with fire.
I cannot and will not be held responsible for any damages. If you don't know how to do this, don't do it. There are also non-fray liquids at the fabric store that you can apply or you can use clear fingernail polish.
Attaching to Camera:
To attach your quick release straps to your camera you will need these small pieces off of your original camera strap. I call them "stays" since I don't know the technical term.
Once you have the quick release straps on your camera, you wont ever have to take them off to change your camera strap.
Thread one of the stays onto the strap, then thread the strap through the loop on the camera. Thread the loose end of the strap back through the stay and tighten down. It should now look like this.
Repeat for other strap. Now you can attach your padded camera strap by clipping the male end of the neck strap to the female end of the camera side strap. Repeat for the other end. You're done!
Fabulous? I know, it is, isn't it.
Wanna win one? Comment and/or become a follower of miymdiary.blogspot.com and you're entered to win the strap I made for the tutorial!
Want an extra chance to win, Blog about it and put a link to miymdiary.blogspot.com in your post. Then comment to let me know you blogged, leaving your blog address so I can come check you out.
This giveaway closes on Make It Monday, so make sure you get your comments and blogs in before then.
I must have at least 6 entries to do the giveaway. If there are not enough, the giveaway will be cancelled. Please comment!
Happy Creating!!
Supplies:
- 1/4 yard fabric
- 2 - 2 1/2" x 32" strips of thick fusible interfacing or you can use batting or fleece.
- 1 yard 1/2" webbing
- 2 - 1/2" wide clips
Cutting and creasing fabric:
Cut fabric to 34" long. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press, then open with wrong side facing up.
Using center crease as a guide, fold raw edges toward center, leaving 5/8" between raw edges and center crease. Press.
Open out. Fold 1/2" toward wrong side of fabric at each end. Press.
Assembly:
Place one strip of interfacing, fusible side down on top of wrong side of fabric, between outer crease and center crease. Repeat for other piece of interfacing between other outer crease and the center crease.
Fold fabric over interfacing. Turn entire assembly over. Press to fuse, following instructions provided with interfacing.
Turn back over. Fold in half along center crease. Press. Your strap should now look like this.
Top stitch both long edges of strap 1/4" from edge backstitching at both ends.
Adding Quick Release Straps:
Cut 2 strips of webbing 7" long. Using 1 strip of webbing and the male side of one clip, thread male side of clip onto webbing. Fold webbing in half lengthwise. Insert ends into end of strap. Don't overlap ends.
Stitch, going over stitching 3 times. Backstitch at the start and finish. Repeat for other end of strap, this time using the female part of the clip.
Topstitch around all edges of strap 1/8" from the edge, going over the stitching 3 times at each end with webbing, to strenthen.
Camera Side Straps:
Cut two 9" strips of webbing. Using 1 strap and the male end of the other clip, thread the male end onto the webbing. Fold over 3/4". Stitch closed going over stitching 3 times. Stitch another line 1/8" from original seam, going over 3 times to strengthen.
Repeat with other strip of webbing and female side of clip.
Tip: To keep ends of webbing from fraying, melt them with a lighter before sewing. Be careful, you're playing with fire.
I cannot and will not be held responsible for any damages. If you don't know how to do this, don't do it. There are also non-fray liquids at the fabric store that you can apply or you can use clear fingernail polish.
Attaching to Camera:
To attach your quick release straps to your camera you will need these small pieces off of your original camera strap. I call them "stays" since I don't know the technical term.
Once you have the quick release straps on your camera, you wont ever have to take them off to change your camera strap.
Thread one of the stays onto the strap, then thread the strap through the loop on the camera. Thread the loose end of the strap back through the stay and tighten down. It should now look like this.
Repeat for other strap. Now you can attach your padded camera strap by clipping the male end of the neck strap to the female end of the camera side strap. Repeat for the other end. You're done!
Fabulous? I know, it is, isn't it.
Wanna win one? Comment and/or become a follower of miymdiary.blogspot.com and you're entered to win the strap I made for the tutorial!
Want an extra chance to win, Blog about it and put a link to miymdiary.blogspot.com in your post. Then comment to let me know you blogged, leaving your blog address so I can come check you out.
This giveaway closes on Make It Monday, so make sure you get your comments and blogs in before then.
I must have at least 6 entries to do the giveaway. If there are not enough, the giveaway will be cancelled. Please comment!
Happy Creating!!
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Decorative Wipes Clutch
This project is FANTASTIC!!! I tried it out yesterday and it turned out great!
For my first time doing it, it took me about an hour, but now that I know how, it will take much less time next time.
To make your own, check out this tutorial from homemade by jill.
Just because it's called decorative wipes clutch, don't discount it's usefulness. These would make great pencil/crayon cases, or think "that time of the month" or how about to keep all those stray buttons in. Think outside the box and you'll find endless possibilities for this fantastic decorative wipes clutch.
Oh, and I almost forgot about cost. I've checked around online and found these for anywhere between $10 and $30. I spent a grand total of $3.76 for all the supplies. Definitely better than buying in my book.
Happy Creating!!
For my first time doing it, it took me about an hour, but now that I know how, it will take much less time next time.
To make your own, check out this tutorial from homemade by jill.
Just because it's called decorative wipes clutch, don't discount it's usefulness. These would make great pencil/crayon cases, or think "that time of the month" or how about to keep all those stray buttons in. Think outside the box and you'll find endless possibilities for this fantastic decorative wipes clutch.
Oh, and I almost forgot about cost. I've checked around online and found these for anywhere between $10 and $30. I spent a grand total of $3.76 for all the supplies. Definitely better than buying in my book.
Happy Creating!!
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Diaper Clutch
This is a very simple and useful project, borne from my desire to save money and also be organized. My friend Laura came over and talked me through it and helped me make a sample or 2, and now we've got a tutorial ready for all you that want your own diaper clutch.
Diaper Clutch
- Supplies: You will need the following items:
- 3 pieces of 8 1/2" x 11" printer paper
- scissors for paper
- pencil
- tape
- ruler
- fabric tape measure
- scissors for fabric
- pins
- thread
- sewing machine (obviously)
- 2 coordinating 1/4 yard pieces of fabric
- velcro
**This tutorial uses a 1/2" seam allowance unless otherwise specified**
Section 1: Make A Pattern
Although you can make this without a pattern, I've found it's much easier when it comes to cutting and getting angles and curves the same if you use a pattern.
- For Front Piece:
- Using 1 piece of paper, draw a curve in one corner.
- Fold the paper in half the long way an cut both layers of paper along curve line.
- Open paper out, this is your pattern for the front section of the project.
- For Back Piece:
- Tape the remaining 2 pieces of paper together the long way so it is 15 1/2" long.
At the top, make a mark 1 1/2" from the left side of the paper. Repeat for the right side.- Measure down 5 1/4" from the top of the paper. Using a ruler, draw a line across pattern. This is your tab fold line.
- Using a ruler, connect fold line at right edge of paper with right side mark. Fold paper in half the long way, and cut along line.
- Using the front pattern as a guide, cut a curve in the bottom corner, then open flat. This is your pattern for the back section of the project.
Section 2: Cut the Fabric
**For purposes of the tutorial, I will be using Hop Dot-Tangerine from Heather Bailey's Nicey Jane Collection as my lining and Welcome Road-Pink also from Heather Bailey's Nicey Jane Collection for my outer fabric. I will reference them yellow and pink for the remainder of the tutorial.**
Layer a single layer of each fabric then lay the pattern on top of them. You can pin the pattern to the fabric if you wish.- Cut around each pattern through both layers of fabric.
- You should now have 1 pink back piece, 1 pink front piece, 1 yellow back piece, and 1 yellow front piece.
Section 3: Assembly
- Front
- With right sides together, stitch top edge of front pieces only. Open flat.
- With right sides up, stitch seam allowance to yellow lining 1/8" - 1/4" from original seam.
- With right sides still facing up, measure 2 1/4" from original seam in center of pink fabric. Mark with a pencil.
- Center bottom edge of hook side of velcro rectange on mark, then sew 1/8" from all edges of velcro to attach.
- Back
- With right side facing up, measure 1" from top in center of yellow fabric. mark with a pencil.
- Center top edge of loop side of velcro on mark, then sew 1/8" from all edges of velcro to attach.
- Fold down top edge of yellow fabric 1/2" toward wrong side of fabric. Press. Repeat this step on pink fabric also.
- Putting Sides Together
- Layer back pink fabric, right side up, then with wrong sides together layer front assembly with yellow side up. Last, layer back yellow fabric, wrong side up.
- Pin into place.
- Stitch around 3 sides leaving folded top side open for turning.
- Trim seam allowances to alleviate bulk. Turn right sides out.
- Stitch opening closed 1/8" - 1/4" from edge.
You're finished!! That's all there is to it.
So, according to my assessment, this project costs less than $6 and it takes less than 1 hour. Hmmm, I don't know about you, but that's definitely worth making myself instead of buying one.
If you have any questions, please contact me at kristinslearningmoments@gmail.com.
This giveaway will close on Friday, March 12. I will announce a winner on Make It Yourself Monday!
Happy Creating!
*fabric purchased at Piece By Piece, Eugene, OR. Other supplies purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics.
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