This skirt requires a bit of math, so get your calculators ready!
NOTE: This skirt could also be made for an adult using the same formula.
Supplies:
- yardage of fabric (based on size of person, tiers, and length of skirt)
- 3/4 inch non-rolling elastic
- coordinating thread
- scissors
- rotary cutter and mat (optional)
- paper
- pencil or pen
- calculator (optional)
- sewing machine
- iron
- ironing board or mat
Determine the length of the skirt by measuring from the waist to where you want the hem.
Determine how many tiers you want.
You can now formulate the measurements for the skirt.
You will cut strips for each tier. The width of the tiers will equal the length of your skirt divided by the number of tiers plus seam allowances and allowances for a hem and a waistband. Add two inches to the first tier for the waistband. Add one inch to each of the middle tiers for seam allowances (half inch for the upper seam allowance and half an inch for the lower seam allowance). Add one and a half inches for hem and seam allowances on the bottom tier.
Now, to determine the length of the tiers. Remember that waist measurement? You will use that now. Depending on how full you want your tiers to be, you will multiply that times 1.5 or 2. I will use 2 for this tutorial on a 22 inch waist. On the red and white skirts, I used1.5 (you can look at the pictures to help determine how full you want your skirt to be). For the length of each tier, multiply the previous tier times 2 (or 1.5 if you are wanting the less gathered tiers).
Here is a brief recap:
Waist measurement = 22 inches
Length of skirt = 18 inches
Number of tiers = 4
Length divided by number of tiers = X (4.5)
Width of 1st tier = X+2 (4.5 + 2 = 6.5)
Width of 2nd and 3rd tiers = X+1 (4.5 + 1 = 5.5)
Width of 4th tier = X+1.5 (4.5 + 1.5 = 6)
Length of first tier = Waist x 2 = A (A = 44)
Length of second tier = A x 2 = B (B = 88)
Length of third tier = B x 2 = C (C = 176)
Length of fourth tier = C x 2 = D (D = 352)
On to cutting the fabric!
I used a rotary cutter, self healing mat, and ruler to cut my fabric. You may also mark your fabric and cut with scissors. Here is a picture of a strip that I just cut.
Because the fabric is 44 inches wide and my first tier needed to be 44 inches, I folded the fabric the same way it was folded on the bolt to cut the strips. I cut one strip for the first tier (44 inches long by 6.5 inches wide). For the second tier, I cut 2 strips 44 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, totaling 88 inches long by 5.5 inches wide (it doesn't matter if it ends up slightly shorter due to seams, just go with it). For the third tier, I cut 4 strips 44 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, and the fourth tier I cut 8 strips 44 inches long by 6 inches wide.
Here is a picture of all the strips for the 4 tiers of the skirt. I am using 2 coordinating fabrics and alternating them.
I like to start from the hem and work up to the waistband.
1. Take all of the strips for the top tier of the skirt and sew them together into one continuous piece. Press seams out. If you need to finish off the raw edges, you can use a zigzag stitch or serger.
Repeat for each tier.
On the bottom tier, turn a half inch along one edge of the tier, pressing. Turn again. Stitch along the upper edge of the hem.
2. To gather, stitch a 1/4 inch from top edge using a long stitch (I use a stitch length of 5 on my machine, but all of the other machines I have used gathered at a stitch length of 4). Then stitch again a 1/4 inch front the first row of stitching. With really long tiers, you can do the gathering stitches in sections.
3. Pull the threads on ONE side of the fabric to gather. Be sure not to pull so hard that you break the thread- if using a good quality thread this won't be an issue.
Pin the gathered edge to the next tier of fabric, right sides together. Stitch 1/2 inch from the edged, making sure that you are using a normal stitch length again. Finish off the raw edges with a serger or by sewing a zigzag stitch.
Turn right side out and press seam allowance up toward the upper tier (ungathered edge).
I like to do an 1/8 inch topstitch to make it look more professional. This is optional, but it really does look nice!
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for all tiers except the top tier.
5. Turn under 1/4 inch on the top edge of the top tier, pressing as you go.
Turn again, this time turning 1 inch, pressing as you go.
Stitch 1/8 inch seam around both edges to create casing for the elastic, leaving a 2 inch opening.
Measure the wearer's waist. Cut your elastic 1-2 inches longer. Thread through the casing (I usually use a safety pin for this). Overlap the two ends of the elastic and stitch using a zigzag stitch, going back and forth several times. Check the fit. Pull the elastic inside the casing and finish by stitching the opening closed.
Variations:
You can cut your strips in continuous strips down the length of your fabric if you don't want seams other than on the sides. This takes more time and effort, but I did it on the red and white skirts that I made.
You can do patchwork tiers as well. This is a little more time consuming, but can look gorgeous. Maybe I will do a tutorial on patchwork someday. I'm not promising anything at the moment, though!
***If you have any questions please leave a comment and I will try to answer it!***


























